TUDOR Tudor has been out of the world of general-purpose movements since 2015, and has also started to make its own movements. Considering the fine traditions of the entire group and the skills behind them, some people may still feel that Tudor until then It was a little late to have a homemade movement. However, although it didn’t start earlier than other brands, in more than three years, Tudor has been actively developing its own product line. In addition to the basic three-hand function, it has also derived chronographs or two-time functions. More and more. Tracing the source, MT5621 and MT5612 are the two starting points of Tudor’s home-made movements. This time, let us admire the attractive features of the North Flag and Pelagos equipped with these two movements.
TUDOR North Flag
As mentioned earlier, Pelagos and this North Flag are the first models to be equipped with Tudor-made movements. Among them, the North Flag has received more attention than Pelagos because it is a native model and has a power reserve display. At the beginning, everyone was too excited about the launch of the self-made movement by Tudor, so the discussion about this was almost focused on the movement. On the contrary, the analysis of the watch itself was carried over, and now, after enough time, It’s time to take a comprehensive look at the entire watch.
The power reserve display is set at 9 o’clock on the face plate, and the bright yellow fan-shaped squares gradually shrink to remind the wearer of the remaining time.
The case is actually combined with ceramic material
The North Flag is a native style. Although some of the elements in the watch can be reminiscent of the brand’s antique watches in the past, it is generally appropriate to look at the new watch. The body of the watch is integrally formed from the middle case to the lugs. The substantial structural strength and impression belong to the sturdy and durable design, which meets the requirements of the product ‘mission equipment’. The bezel here rarely uses a double-layer structure / material. The upper layer is stainless steel like the case, and the lower layer is ceramic. After the popularization of ceramic materials, there are many examples of replacing the entire bezel with ceramic for scratch resistance. It is relatively rare to place ceramics underneath.
The crown is screw-in to ensure water resistance, and the crown is slightly tapered, making it easier to handle manually. From here, you can also see that the lower layer of ceramic is wider than the upper layer of stainless steel, which is the first line of resistance when encountering side impacts.
Reverse thinking creates new value for ceramic structures
Placing ceramic on the lower layer of the bezel technically cannot prevent scratches from the front. This is a puzzling design of the North Flag. However, because the side of the bezel is inclined outward, the lower layer of ceramic can be used. In order to resist the impact from the lateral direction; on the other hand, although the ceramic is scratch-resistant, it may be completely broken when it is hit. Tudor may not use ceramics on the front here to avoid this situation. The watch comes with a chain strap or a belt, but even the belt comes with a folding buckle.
The watch rarely has a transparent caseback. Although the North Flag uses a larger movement, the size of the watch is smaller than the Pelagos. The reason why it is so important is that the movement is exposed.
Currently the only Tudor-made movement with a power reserve display
Compared with the Peugeos 5612, the watch is equipped with the 5621 movement. The first is that the diameter of the movement is slightly larger, and the other is that the power reserve is displayed at 9 o’clock. Energy storage display in Tudor (or Rolex) is a relatively rare feature. Although it may not be necessary under the premise that the user of the automatic winding and Tudor is likely to wear it for a long time, but considering The power reserve of the system is seventy hours, and the watch user may forget to add the chain when wearing it, so multiple energy storage indicators can also be regarded as insurance measures.
Pelagos is one of TUDOR’s earliest replacement of homemade movements. For a long time, Pelagos has always been undervalued in the brand. Objectively speaking, its performance and exterior materials as professional diving watches are higher than Black Bay, but the price is only a little higher, and the CP value is definitely higher. , But it is always difficult to beat BB’s pleasing retro look, and its popularity is slightly inferior, so Tudor has always made a lot of tricks to enhance the attractiveness of Pelagos. It can be regarded as one of the first to carry homemade movement one.
The square decoration nicknamed ‘Snowflake’ by the collector can be seen on the hour hand. This is the signature feature of TUDOR’s production of diving watches since 1969.
More professional performance than Black Bay
Pelagos has a water-resistant depth of 500 meters, which can already be regarded as a deep diving watch, so there is a helium exhaust valve on the left side of the case. The outer case is made of titanium and the bezel is ceramic. These are beyond the reach of Black Bay. It is also worth mentioning that it has a buckle with a strap. It has a professional diving watch Often the increased joint extension structure, as well as the special elastic tension function, will automatically lengthen or shorten as the pressure changes in the water, which is quite superior in the diving tables currently on the market.
The ceramic bezel is the most attractive point of Pelagos’s many specifications over BB. The official has not detailed the process of their ceramic bezels in memory, but its digital scale and surface are flush with it, which is different from the intaglio of Rolex.
Tudor Diver Watch Classic Classic Hand
The workmanship of the watch exteriors outside the materials is also quite delicate. The model uses the axe needle of the Tudor diving watch’s signature-now officially named Snowflake Needle. This may be one of the most wise decisions when Tudor reorganized the diving watch product line in 2012, successfully defining the unique personality of its own products. , But also linked to the brand’s vast historical heritage. The façade on the inside of the case is beveled. The rectangular time scale cuts directly into this bevel, creating a very three-dimensional sense of space on the surface. This is a feature of modern watchmaking in terms of processing technology and aesthetic style. .
The crown shoulders are also available in Pelagos but not in BB. Even the date shows that BB was finally added until 2017. Although people who want to buy BB should still prefer the dateless version, the difference between the two demands You can see this
Added blue face with homemade movement
After Pelagos started to replace the brand-made MT5612 movement, it also launched a new color of blue face and blue ring. The official blue points out that this blue is taken from the brand’s past diving watches, but the blue of the antique Tudor diving watch is closer to the navy blue, which is quite different from this light blue. The connection is mainly spiritual . The self-made movement is certified by the observatory, so the lower part of the faceplate is marked with relevant words. Such dense printing should also be very appetizing for Rolex / Tudor players.
Stainless steel, ceramic material / MT 5621 self-winding movement / hours, minutes, seconds, date display / power reserve display / COSC Observatory certification / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 100 meters / 40mm diameter / reference price: 21,000 RMB
Titanium, ceramic material / MT 5612 self-winding movement / hour, minute, second, date / C.O.S.C. Observatory certification / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 500 meters / diameter 42mm / reference price: 30,000 RMB